Shoe-sewing- machine



F. E. BERTRAND SHOE SEWING MACHINE Original Filed April 7, 19 16 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 v fume-7% 7 1- M7;

Dec. 23, 1924.

1,520,276 F. E. B ERTRAND SHOE SEWING MACHINE Uriginal 7, 2 sheets sh t 2 Patented Dec. 23, 1924,

UNITED STATES yacht p PATENT OFFICE FREDERIC E. BERTRAND, 0J5 LYNN, liIASSAGI-IUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY CORPORATION; 7344?- I YTVE J'EfltlEY, A CGB-IMEATIQN O'F NEW JERSEY,

Original application. filed April 7, 1916, Serial No. 89,560. Divided and this application filed November To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, FRnnnnIo E, Brie 'IRAND, a citizen oi the United States, residing at Lynn, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented cer tain new and useful Improvements in Shoe- Sewing; Machines; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

The present invention relates to sewing machines and more particularly to looper actuating mechanism for shoe sewing inachines of the type employing; a curved hook needle adapted for fair stitching mock wells and stitched down shoes.

The object of the present invention is to provide a novel and improved looper actusting mechanism for shoe sewing machines which is simple in construction and ellicient in operation.

The features of the present invention comprise certain constructions, arrangements and combinations of parts hereinafter described and claimed, the advantages of which will be obvious to those skilled in the art.

The several features of the present invention will. be clearly understood from the following description and accompanying drawinns in which Figure 1 is a side elevation, partly in section, of a portion of a shoe sewing machine embodying the features of the invention in their preferred form; and Fig. 2 is a plan view partly in section of the parts of the machine shown in Fig. 1.

The machine illustrated in the drawings is a chain stitch shoe sewing machine particularly designed for sewing the out turned upper to the sole of a stitched down shoe. The machine is provided with a curved hook needle 2, a needle guide 4, a curved awl 6, a thread finger 8 and a looper 10, which parts may be and preferably are the same as corresponding parts of the machine illustrated and described in applicants copending application, Serial No. 89,560, filed April 7, 1916, of which the present appli cation constitutes a division.

The looper 10 is provided with an eye through which the thread passes and opcrates to loop the thread around the needle fleri'al N0,

just above the barb thereof which the needle is at the limit of its downward movement. .Tn order that the eye oi the looper may be adjusted vertically and transversely relatively to the needle, the looper is provided with a stud 11. This stud, for purposes of adjustment, is received in a split collar on the outer end of an arm of a lever 12. The lever 12 is pivoted on a crank pin fi l secured to or formed integral with a shaft 16 vertically and obliquely arranged in bearings 18 and 20 formed on the web 22. The shaft 16 is provided on its upper end with a collar 24twhich rests upon the upper side of the bearing" 18, and upon its lower end with a nut, which holds the shaft in operative position. The shaft 16 is actuated to impart a thread looping movement to the looper, and for this purpose is provided with a spiral slot 26 of such length and formation that, when the pin 28 which engages the slot is caused to travel upwardly the length of the slot, the shaft is turned counter-clockwise approximately one complete rotation; and when the pin 28 is caused to descend the length of the slot, the shaft is turned clockwise approximately one complete rotation. The up and down movements are imparted to the pin by a lever 30 of bellcrank form pivoted on the machine frame. On the vertically arranged arm of the lever 30 is sup ported a cam roll 32 which is engaged by a can] path Formed in the side of the cam 34-. The Free end of the horizontally arranged arm of the lever 30 is recessed axially and receives for axial movements therein the shank of a pin support 36 which loosely embraces the shaft 16. The threaded portion of the pin 28 is screwed into the front side of the pin support. The rear end of the looper lever 12 is loosely received for reciprocatory movement in a longitudinal recess in a T-shaped bearing 38 pivoted in a bracket 40 projecting laterally from the web 22. The above described construction is such that, when the shaft 16 through the actuation of the lever 30 is caused to rotate counter-clockwise, the thread eye of the looper is caused to describe an ellipse about the needle, as shown in dotted lines in Fig, 2. This movement of the looper lays the thread in the needle barb and takes place while the needle is at the limit of its downward stroke. After the needle has risen and the barb of the needle has sufiiciently penetrated the work, and before the awl is again actuated to feed the work, the looper performs its return movement. It is desirable that the looper should describe a complete ellipse rather than a partial one, although it is obvious that the latter would be sufiieient for the purpose of laying thread in the needle barb. The amount of movement of the looper is controlled by the throw of the cam path by which the lever 30 is actuated.

The nature and scope of the present in vention having been indicated and a machine embodying the several features of the present invention in their preferred form having been. specifically described what is claimed is l. A. chain stitch sh e sewing machine having, in combination, a curved hook needle, a looper, feeding means, and means for actuating the looper comprising a shaft having a spiral groove, a bellcrank lever, connections between the spiral groove and the bellcrank lever, means for actuating the latter, and a looper lever eccentrically mounted on the shaft for supporting the looper.

A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, a needle, a looper, a thread finger, and mechanism for actuating the looper comprising a shaft, a lever, having provision at one end for supporting the looper pivoted on the shaft eccentric to the axis thereof, a pivotally mounted bearing for slidingly supporting the free end of the lever, a spiral groove formed on the shaft, a pin adapted to travel in the spiral groove, and means for causing the pin to travel in the groove to impart a rotative movement to the shaft.

3. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, a curved hook needle, a looper, a thread finger, and mechanism for actuating the looper comprising a looper lever pivotally andslidingly mounted, a shaft, eccentric connections between the lever and the shaft, and means movable axially of the shaft for actuating the shaft,

said shaft being constructed and arranged so that when its actuating means moves axially to it, the shaft is caused to rotate.

l. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, 21- looper and mechanism for moving the looper in an elliptical path about the needle comprising a shaft, a lever having the looper mounted on one end, pivotally mounted between its ends on said shaft eccentrically to the axis of the shaft and mounted at its end opposite to the looper for both pivotal and longitudinal movements, an d means for rotating the shaft.

A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper, a shaft, means for rotating the shaft, a looper carrying lever pivotally mounted on the shaft eccentrically to the axis of the shaft, and means for guiding the lever to cause the looper to traverse an elliptical path about the needle in a plane at right angles to the axis of the shaft upon rotation of the shaft.

6. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a looper, a shaft, a block movable longitudinally of the shaft, connections between the block and shaft to cause rotation of the shaft upon movement of the block longitudinally of the shaft, a looper carrying lever pivotally mounted on the shaft eccentrically to the axis of the shaft, and means for guiding the lever to cause the looper to traverse an elliptical path upon rotation of the shaft.

7. A chain stitch shoe sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a hook needle, a looper, a looper carrying lever pivotally and longitudinally movable during the sewing operation to cause the looper to traverse an elliptical path about the needle in a plane at right angles to the pivot of the lever and means for thus actuating the looper.

FREDERIC E. BERTRAND. 

